Until Next Time, Taiwan

Currently, we are sitting at the Taipei International Airport, awaiting our 3PM flight to Shanghai. From there we will transfer planes and at 11:55PM tonight, we will be off to Frankfurt, Germany! Do you know what that means?

Ray and I have officially flown around the world together.

Just a fun thought I had : )

The last week in Taiwan has been so much fun and a bit unsettling too. Ray put it best when he said: "It makes me happy that I'm sad to be leaving Taiwan. It means I did something right." While we're so excited to see family (and have second Christmas!) leaving a place you called home is never easy.

As we've prepared, we have shared with each other the things we'll miss about Taiwan. Now we share them with you.

1. Our students- there couldn't be a cuter bunch of kids anywhere (except for our nieces and nephews who will only ever be trumped by our own children. We're planning on raising super model, Olympic swimmers, you know).

2. Select Food Items- Things like: fried curry dumplings, banana milk, fresh mango smoothies, rice triangles, and dongua cha are just a few of our favorites that are unique to Taiwan. With some luck, maybe we'll find fried curry dumplings in the states somewhere. We managed to find a brick of dongua cha (a fruit tea~ in English either Wax Gourd, or Wintermelon) so we're excited to try that out soon!

3. Flora and Fauna- Living in a tropical climate has been unbelievably rewarding in terms of the foliage. You can't go anywhere without being floored by the amount of greenery, the size of the greenery, and the vast varieties of it too!

4. People We've Met & Friends We've Made- Taiwan has some of the sweetest people in the world, they've been kind and helpful to us and even with a language barrier sometimes, we've made some lasting memories. Through church too we've met great people and created friendships that we look forward to tending for years to come.

5. Night Markets- Although Ray may beg to differ, they were one of the coolest things Taiwan had to offer. I never got tired of perusing the streets and checking out all the fun and quirky things for sale. 


Inevitably, we also developed a list of things we probably won't be yearning for any time soon...

1. BUGS- From cockroaches, to mosquitoes and biting midges, the bugs have been overwhelming and a rather unwelcome part of Taiwan. Of course as the weather cooled, things got better. The cockroaches especially though were a never ending battle we're happy to see the end of.

2. Humidity- In the summer you melt from it, in the winter you freeze from it. Who knew you could be shivering and shaking when it's only 62 degrees out! That's apparently what a wet cold will do to you though. We made it through alive, but humidity is something we could deal with less of in our lives. : )

3. Traffic- I don't think you ever quite fully adjust to being on a bike with 20 scooters around you, trying to get through an intersection with no stop lights or signs, and a tour bus eeking between you and oncoming traffic.

4. Smells- It scares us how accustomed to the smells of Taiwan we have become. When we first got here they were almost unbearable, now they're tolerable and sometimes even nice. Have we destroyed our noses forever?! Will we ever smell things the same?! We got some solace when we finally tried stinky tofu last week. Although we made it through the smell, it still did not taste good. Phew! We haven't lost all our senses yet!

 

"Stinky Tofu" by Ray
It tastes like eating a deep fried scab.

Ray ends now with some more reflective and mature writing.

It was a few weeks ago while walking to the store at night that I realized: I've grown accustom to this place. I've grown accustom to the old buildings, the abundant green foliage covering the mountains and popping out wherever it it can, the bright neon signs that line storefronts on the roadsides. I've grown accustom to the sound of hundreds of scooters bustling through the streets, the sound of people speaking in a kind of melodic warble all around us and not understanding what they're saying, the sound of children's laughter, and yelling and giggling. I've grown accustom to the smiles of helpful strangers and the "Hellow!"s of passersby; accustom to the feeling of being a foreigner at home in a foreign land, surrounding by everything I don't understand but feeling comfortable nonetheless. And this realization made me wonder; have I grown to love Taiwan? Do I love this place with all of its smells and foods and quarks and confusion? I know I'll miss it and that I'll look back at my time here fondly and often. Yes, Taiwan has truly "touched my heart."

A Very Happy Thanksgiving To You

We have so much to be thankful for this year. We're so thankful for the opportunity we got to come here to Taiwan and teach. We're thankful for the timing of this blessing in our lives, and for everything it has taught us.

Being in Taiwan has made our relationship grow stronger and develop more than we could have expected or hoped. It has challenged us as individuals also, and given us perfect opportunities to tackle the things we have been too afraid to try before. We are so grateful for this all around development and recognize none of it could have been possible without faith in Heavenly Father. Mostly we are thankful to Him for guiding us together, bringing us here, and keeping us safe while still helping us progress. (Everyone knows progress always comes with some bumps and bruises along the way- we're thankful for those scrapes too, the scars make great stories!)

On top of all our blessings, we're thankful that some of my extended family was willing and able to come visit us and spend time with us here in Taiwan. My fabulous aunt and cousin came to spend a week in Taiwan; see the sights, eat the food, and help us have a marvelous Thanksgiving.

Even though we still had work everyday, it was so fun spending the evenings chatting with them and playing games. On Saturday we finally got to spend the whole day with them so we took them to Lukang where they bought some temple fans of their own, plus some other great gifts to take back to family. Here's some pictures of all the fun we got to share with them.

Cousin Carie, me, and Aunt Deb. My cousin is gorgeous. My Aunt is a rock star (literally, everyone wanted pictures with them.)

Armed with a hand drawn map and directions, my family trekked to Costco in Taichung for the *last* pumpkin pie, just to make our Thanksgiving that much better.

You can't eat pumpkin pie in Asia with a fork, come on! Are you crazy? You gotta eat it with chopsticks!

Here's our whole group with some of the waiters who wanted a picture with us at our favorite restaurant: TASTY. It was our official Thanksgiving meal on Friday night since we worked late on Thursday and we don't have an oven. Duck is pretty much the Taiwanese turkey, right?

While doing some shopping before Thanksgiving dinner, we came across these good lookin' mannequins. We couldn't say no to a photo op.  

Ray has been working hard designing a new game, so while Carie was here they played a couple tester rounds. It was super intense and lots of fun to watch them get into it!

While we were in Lukang there was a random huge parade full of temple shrines carried on structures like this one. There were also fire works and lots of drumming and crashing of symbols. They were obviously happy and having fun. We, a little shell shocked from the sudden crowding of the narrow street stepped aside and whipped out our cameras and then enjoyed the show!











Later that night we put my family on a train and sent them off to Taipei so they could catch their flight back to America this morning. It was so great having them here, we will forever be thankful for this particular Thanksgiving. With only 40 days left in our journey we're working hard to soak up every last experience and memory we can. Again, we're so thankful we came, and we're excited for our next adventure after Taiwan.

The Beach...FINALLY!

When Ray and I were packing for this excursion, I lovingly packed my bathing suit and thought of riding the bus to the beach every weekend. I could just imagine the heat, the humidity, the salty water, gorgeous waves, and myself soaking up every second of living in a tropical country.

WAKE UP CALL!

As it turns out, there's not a swimming beach anywhere near us in Changhua. My students actually laughed at me when I asked if there was one nearby. To add insult to injury, the Taiwanese aren't really the "swimmer" type so then my kids taunted me and said they'd call the ambulance for me when I tried to go swimming! So rude.

At long last though, we committed ourselves to going to Kenting, which is basically the entire southern tip of Taiwan and is the country's first national park. The park includes of course fabulous foliage, but also stunning coral reefs and white sand beaches. The trip was great and was probably the most relaxing, enjoyable weekend we've had in Taiwan. Gorgeous scenery, delicious sea food, our first scooter ride, and did I mention the beach?

Our first day we just bummed around on the beach for several hours. Got a good sun tan, and by tan I mean burn. Gosh it was great. While I soaked up some sun, Ray played in the sand making drip castles and suddenly became a new tourist attraction. I caught a picture at the start, at one point he must have had roughly 10 people surrounding him intently watching his construction.

 After the beach we rented some scooters (which are the only way to go in Kenting) and explored as far as Sail Rock, which conveniently took us past yet another night market. At Sail Rock, we also watched the sunset and climbed out over some old coral to get a closer look at the giant rock that is supposedly supposed to resemble President Nixon's profile.

Sun's a gettin' ready to set!

Here's Ray sitting on the fun frog chairs they provide to enjoy the sun set.

Sail Rock a.k.a. "Nixon's Head"

 This is right next to Sail Rock, the color of the water was just breath taking. 






As was the entire process of watching the sun set and turn all the clouds different shades of pink.

The next morning we did one more dip into the ocean. I really can't complain that this is what I walked out of my hostel door to. 

Then we took our scooters over to the West Coast of the tip for some highly recommended snorkeling. I wish I'd had an underwater camera to document all the fish we saw. The only things I could really identify were: Gil & Nemo. Thus ends my tropical fish knowledge. The little cove we went to went out about 100 yards, and we swam out to nearly the edge. The water was remarkably clear and we could see about 20 feet down into choral chasms full of fish and scuba divers (whom I was uber jealous of). All the choral was bright colors and just crawling with sea life including a sea anemone where I saw Nemo. My favorite though was looking straight ahead and realizing I was surrounded by a school of what looked to me like "baby" sword fish; imagine a sword fish, and now make it about 8" long.

Here we are with our friend who came with us, right after our snorkeling. Pretty fancy gear, eh? The place we went to was called Maobitou. We essentially just rode our scooters to an estimation of where snorkeling would be, and then a sweet Taiwanese woman hooked us up with this shop who outfitted us and then transported us to the snorkeling cove.

We were starving after spending a few hours in the water, so we hit up a fresh fish market- and I mean fresh. Literally built over the water, this little hall was packed with fish and yet did not have a fishy smell at all. (Aside- Ray and I have been watching MasterChef religiously over here, which is where we learned that a fish with no fish smell is the best of the best catch and unbelievably fresh). Here's Ray enjoying his sashimi platter- raw fish served on ice, literally can I stress anymore how fresh this was? I went exotic and tried a Mambo fish dish, it was delish. 

Though I didn't try it, they did offer whole, deep fried, flying fish. 

Yes, I know this is just a bunch of dead fish, but I think it's beautiful. So call me morbid, if you must. 

Here we are on our scooter ride back towards the main part of town after lunch. I believe my words to Ray were "I'm gonna take a picture, just keep your eyes on the road!"

Our final stop was a scenic point where natural gas flows out of the earth and is lit so it burns year round. Although signs strictly prohibit vendors and entering the 'ring of fire' people walked right in to get better pictures- and to pop popcorn like the man in pink. The other man was there "firing" eggs and selling them for $10 NT. We indulged for the experience of eating an egg that had been cooked in natural flames. 

Here's our friendly popcorn man who casually approached us and offered us some of his popcorn. Then he politely posed for my picture. 

Soon it was time to head home again. One final picture on our classy scooter and we were off. The sunburn lasted a week, the sand a little longer, but the memories will last a lifetime.

Taipei- 台北

Last weekend we did a whirlwind 48 hour trip to Taipei. It may possibly be our favorite weekend that we have had here in Taiwan!

We went with some friends from Fengyuan and they had booked our train tickets leaving from Taichung at 7AM, which meant we had to be on a train from Changhua at about 6:30AM- it was quite an early morning, but a peaceful bike ride to the train station that early. Hooray for no traffic!

The train ride took about 3.5 hours and when we got to Taipei, we took our first MRT (Taipei Metro) ride to our hostel to drop off our bags and quickly freshen up- for we were off to the Zoo! Ray and I were worried that the zoo would be a waste of time. After all, we don't have kids oggling over the animals and begging us to go. The entrance fee was only $60NT (~$2USD) though, so we figured, what the heck! Turns out, there's something about zoo's that makes everyone turn into a little kid and have the time of their life. Who can say no to monkeys chasing each other through the trees and swinging from branches like you've only seen in Tarzan?

Also, who can say no to your first panda encounter?

I know he's small, but we were being pushed through this huge line of other people trying to take the same photo!

 Right next to the zoo, is the boarding station for the Maokong Gondola. The gondola ride takes you up the mountain surrounding Taipei and provides you with this stunning view of the city. As luck would have it, I'm still pretty much terrified of heights so the whole ride up my palms were sweating like crazy and I had to keep myself from screaming at anyone who dared to move an inch in our gondola. Call me crazy, but that one metal bar attached to a wire holding 7 Americans just doesn't give me oodles of confidence.

Fortunately my group didn't make me go in one of the glass bottom gondolas- I would have died. I also definitely would have been scrapping my return ticket and finding a bus down to the bottom!

When we finished the gondola ride, we boarded the MRT again and headed straight for Taipei 101, the second tallest building in the world. It only lost its title of the tallest in 2010 I believe, to Dubai. It really was rather breathtaking walking up to it all lit up like this. The elevator ride to the top (a.k.a the 85th floor) costs $450NT, and there was a 15 minute wait to go- so Ray and I bagged that idea and went for the "been there, seen that" point of view instead. Can't say I regret it either, I had had enough heights for one day really.
 

Following 101, we made one final stop the night market. Night markets may sound like a touristy kind of thing, but they really are part of the Taiwanese way of life. There is one nearly every night and people routinely hit them up for dinner, no special occasion needed. It's like going to the fair- a big party every time! The market in Taipei did not disappoint- only in the sense that we did not budget nearly enough time to explore all of it! We probably only got through 4 streets of the countless ones available. We did however, manage to pick up our new favorite souvenir.

We've noticed in Taiwan a lot of couples wear matching shirts... so we decided we should definitely get in on that action. When in Rome, right? So at the night market we found a fabulous T-shirt shop and managed to scoop up these babies for a steal of a deal. We're cool, you can say it.
 

Ray's says: "I love my wife" and mine says "I love my husband"

End Day 1. Followed by a wonderful nights rest- those beds were the most comfortable thing I've slept on in nearly 4 months. I seriously started planning in my brain how I could get out of the hostel with the pillow.  On Sunday we made it to the Jade Market and spent nearly two hours just enjoying "window" shopping, if you will. I discovered a new found love for coral jewelry and Ray spoiled me by buying me a pair of pink coral, rose shaped earrings. I pretty much love them, and Ray. We got some other goodies too, but I shan't be ruining any surprises here... ;-)

After the Jade Market, we went to the National Palace Museum. I had directions from another blogger on how to get there, but apparently we still looked lost enough that an MRT worker attached himself to us, provided us with English MRT maps, and handed us off to our train conductor with instructions that she was to come get us at the stop we needed. He also gave us a note in Chinese to hand to the bus driver to make sure he took us to the right place. The Taiwanese are so helpful and sweet :) And after being in Changhua for so long, we were amazed at how prevalent English was!

The palace museum was fantastic. It is full of old Chinese artifacts that were brought to Taiwan from China in order to save them from destruction during the Chinese Civil War (1948). Ray loved the history involved, and I enjoyed listening to him retell me the stories as we both admired art, jewelry and tapestries all centuries old. If you're ever in Taipei, it's something you don't want to miss.

We ended the night in probably the best way any night could ever end: MEXICAN FOOD. Oh lanta, it had been 4 months plus since we'd had a burrito, and we knew there had to be a decent place in a big city like Taipei. I did a quick Google search and discovered Macho Taco, a highly recommended Mexican restaurant conveniently located downtown. We were the only ones there when we walked in, but soon the place was busting with white people, it was almost like being in the states :) I was too excited to remember to take a picture of my steak burrito with the works and horchata before, so instead I took a picture of our mess after. Oh it was good.

After our Mexican food we headed to the train station once more, indulged in some Cold Stone ice cream (I love big cities) and made it home in Changhua a little past midnight. Phew! Then it was back to teaching 9AM the next morning.

Taipei was fantastic, we hope we get a chance to go back again because we know there is lots more we'd like to see.

Confucius say...

... don't judge us for disappearing from the blog scene too harshly. Here are our most recent diversions to appease your ceaseless hounding for more dramatic tales.

Below you will see us in front of a lovely back drop of Changhua. You can actually see our apartment building in this picture! We had decided to try out a nice bike trail that day, but we got a little lost on the way there. So we explored Baguashan Mountain for a while before eventually making it to the trail. Usually rain would ruin a bike ride, but this blessing brought in a glorious cloud cover that saved our foreigner skin and took the temperature down enough to not kill us too.

The bike trail we took meandered through a graveyard, which was eerily beautiful. The graves sprawl over the hills in a disorganized manner, but you know that each family knows exactly where their loved one is. The silence on top of the mountain was gorgeous, only punctuated by the ice-cream van quality version of Fur Elise from the garbage truck in the city far below us. I'd have to say riding through this cemetery is one of the more beautiful and enlightening things we've done in Taiwan.

Our next adventure was to make it to the Saturday Night Market on our own, with no firm directions or any guides. We hopped onto the street we knew would take us near the market, and went to town. Eight miles and some lost confusion later, we arrived; and rewarded ourselves with some high quality Night Market deliciousness. I shall call it: Explosion Changhua Corn Dog. It was love.

Then it was time to take our "Super Students" to McDonald's for some food and fun! Every two months we pick our top two students in each class for this night out that Maryland School sponsors. We play games with the kids and practice English with them until our food comes. It's good publicity for our school, and hey- we get a free American meal, I shan't say no to that!

This little treasure is Mickey, behind her is Flora. Mickey is so smart, and is one of our favorite students. Flora is in my 2A class and I just love her to pieces. She's the kind of student who walks into class, immediately informs me she wasn't able to complete her homework, and the she understands she has to use her break time to finish that homework. Then she heads to her desk to start writing in her planner. She's adorable, smart and just the sweetest student I could ask for.


At the end of September we got our first and only 3 day weekend- our school took Sept. 28 (Teacher's Day) off. We had planned a big trip to Green Island off the East coast of Taiwan. It was going to be beautiful: hot springs, snorkeling, small local population. Unfortunately a huge typhoon came through that weekend and we had to cancel the trip. Fortunately full refunds are given for typhoons! Since that weekend was also Moon Festival, we weren't too bummed since there were plenty of other things to do. For instance: here we see Ray attempting to BBQ some corn on our $3 USD grill. Our apartment complex called in a KTV (karaoke) vehicle and invited everyone out to the common area to BBQ and karaoke 'til they dropped! Because of the typhoon, it was pretty windy, hence Ray holding up the box to try and keep the wind from blowing out our coals. They also didn't have any songs in English for us to sing, but nevertheless, we thoroughly enjoyed our corn, BBQ chicken and watching several 60+ year old Taiwanese men and women stand up and belt their hearts out with varying levels of success. Good times.

A Smattering of Photos... with Toast

I wish this post included toast. I would kill for some delicious wheat bread, full of hearty oats and seeds and natural goodness. Smothered with some jelly, or perhaps homemade marmalade. But alas, I have none. So instead, we'll just move on to some photos.

A few weekends ago, the four of us (Ray, myself, and the two other teachers we work with) decided to go up to Taichung for a short weekend getaway. There are fabulous shopping streets in Taichung, an amazing, blissfully air conditioned mall, and most importantly: Modern Toilet. Modern Toilet is a restaurant (franchises available in Changhua!) where you sit on an upcycled toilet, and the tables are sinks or bathtubs with some plexi-glass over the top. Our tub came complete with a shower head mounted to the wall! We ordered some soda, and to our delight it came served in a miniature urinal- which Ray is beautifully displaying above. We also got a shaved ice dessert, which had a menagerie of: yellow shaved ice, soft serve on a wafer cookie, raisins, small croutons, mango chunks, and multiple flavors of gelatin pieces; all served in another urinal. Our friend got some french fries in a toilet teacup, and our neighbors ordered soup which comes in a small toilet. It was quite the adventure- and it left us wondering... could we pull off one of these franchises in America?

Here is a picture of me towards the end of one of my classes with our younger kids. They had made a Mr. Potato Head and were cracking up saying it was "Teacher Ray." I of course had to send of them to get Ray and my camera so we could document this. Aren't they the cutest? Johnny isn't trying to kill Yoyo there on the left, he just... didn't want to be in the picture I guess!

We stopped here at this lovely Confucius Temple on our way to Subway and some light shopping. The buildings are always so interesting, but the roof tops are what always get my attention. The animals and detail work are always just phenomenal. I wish I had my own personal tour guide that could just tell me everything about the significance of all these designs and animal statues.

 

Here we are in Taichung again! This time we went up to visit the Jade Market, unfortunately we didn't quite make it. We were delayed by some rain in Changhua, so by the time we rode our bikes to the train station and got a train up to the city it was already about 4:30PM. We got on a bus and told the driver we were looking for some certain streets and tried to communicate the Jade Market to him. He must have understood, or was just sick of us... He informed us the market was closed and we should just get off here. So with a vague idea of where we were in the city, we hopped off and went exploring. Fortunately we find this amazing Buddha statue, and eventually we made our way back to the Chungyo Department Store, where we could easily spend days just exploring the 14 levels of the three different buildings.

We also went to the night market in Taichung, which is way bigger than the one in Changhua, with a lot more to see. Though I will say, I feel like the Changhua night market has better "authentic" foods. We were starving when we got to the market though, so we all stopped at a dumpling place. Our native friend went to order, and came back to tell us she had gotten 10 potstickers. Among 5 people, alright- two for each of us. That will at least tide us over until we see something else we want to eat among the vendors. What we got however, was a bowl of soup for each of us, and 10 flats of 10 potstickers each! Nearly 100 dumplings, which I won't lie, only 10 of which were not consumed within about 15 minutes. They were delightful. :)

This past Friday, a huge typhoon was heading for us, so we got the day off work. Luckily, the typhoon took a southern turn and we didn't even get rain on Friday! Apparently once they've called the day off though, there is no going back, so we just had a nice, relaxing, typhoon free 3 day weekend. In preparation for the typhoon though, Ray and I had gone shopping for the ingredients to make some well deserved chocolate chip cookies. Chocolate chips were nowhere to be had, so we chopped up some chocolate bars instead. You should have seen us scouring the aisles for baking soda too! We had just about given up the entire venture when I spied a small, purple bag with the words "Sodium Bicarbonate" on it. Thank you sophomore year chemistry class for helping me bake cookies in Taiwan :) It was also my first time using a toaster oven! Which is why I'm now probably craving toast...

And finally, on Saturday morning we went to the morning market. We saw lots of cool things again, and everything was a great price, but in the end we ended up just buying me a pair of stud earrings since I left all my jewelry in America during our fast pack. I will definitely have to buy more- one pair for $30 NT ($1 USD) or 4 pair for $100 NT (~$3 USD), yes please!

We ended Saturday by going on a long bike ride to explore more of our "neighborhood." It was really beautiful- and we understand now why everyone has a scooter. The roads to get to homes would simply never accommodate a car. If you don't have a bike or a scooter, you're going to be walking for a long time, my friend. The greenery when we got up close to the mountain was just wild, it really dawned on me that we are living in a tropical country (as if the humidity weren't enough of a reminder). The apartments are so diverse and the range of well-off to impoverished is blatantly obvious, all within a 3 mile radius. Taiwan is unbelievably different from America, we're so glad we are here seeing and experiencing all of this, soaking it in to save and cherish for the rest of our lives.

One final note to end our Sunday. Ray and I both have callings in Primary now. Today was Ray's first day and I think his class will be a bit trying. It's been great to be a part of primary though, we're happy we are there. 

Professional Pea Holder

You heard me. And that is exactly what Ray is: a professional pea holder. Okay, maybe the real title is professional chopsticker, chopstick user, chopstickite? Who knows? But our roommate told us if you could hold three stacked peas in your chopsticks you were professional.

Ray promptly succeeded. I'm... still workin' on it.

We had a very busy week full of adventures where we finally began branching out of our routine. For starters, we tried a new restaurant: Mos Burgers. We were already dying for some American type food, and everyone had been raving about this place. So armed with some general area directions, we took off on our bikes after school one night and eventually found this beauty:

The burger that is. Thanks though ;)

Also this week, our new friends from church took us out to dinner and showed us around the University that is a couple blocks from our apartment complex. The next day they took us to the top of the mountain, Pakuashan, where the largest Buddha statue in Taiwan sits. It was nice and breezy up there, which felt fantastic, and also meant we had views all the way to Taichung. This according to my students is a rare day indeed.

"Praaaaaissse to Buddha!" (insert musical notes here) - Name that movie! And no, it is not Mulan.

The statue was way cool, and the temple behind it was gorgeous. But perhaps the most exciting part was discovering the gigantic koi pond behind the temple full of enormous koi fish. We spent a good 15-20 minutes just ogling at the size of these guys and the beauty of the pond.

We took this from the second floor of the temple looking down. My dad built a koi pond in every house I ever lived in growing up. They were always beautiful, but it wasn't until this moment that I realized what a koi pond could really become.

Seriously, look at the size of these things! We even saw one jump clean out of the water- no less than two feet in the air, I swear.

I lied, perhaps the most exciting part was Ray's new found toy in the temple:

Apparently the higher you lift this weapon, the more blessings you will receive. Neither of us could lift it off the ground even a quarter of an inch... "That's it! Dishonor! Dishonor on your whole family!" Okay, yes, this time it is Mulan.

After a rest from walking around the grounds for a few hours, our friends then took us to Changhua's Night Market. Again, a menagerie of crowded stores and stalls, overflowing with foods, drinks and clothes. This time though there was also an assault on our noses by none other than... Stinky Tofu. We had heard so much about it, but nothing could have prepared us for the at first subtle, then slowly thickening grotesque smell. I'll be completely honest with you, we can't compare the smell to anything else other than sewage. Ray thought some child had messed his pants when we caught our first whiff. Maybe after a few months we'll be brave enough to try it. For now though, our eyes still water when we just think of the smell. That goal is going to take some mental stamina and gag reflex training. Instead, we settled for some delicious, fresh coconut milk, Taiwanese BBQ chicken (amazing!) and the best fried squid we have ever tasted.